Tech Q and A for December, 2024

Q:  I would appreciate an opinion here.  A customer brought me a ’29 Sedan and wants turn signals, using the existing tail light and an added right rear tail light for rears, and use the cowl lights for the forward facing turn signals.  I have done these before, however when I did, I bought the entire harness ready to go.  He said he had done this but brought me the wiring kits you splice in.  I’m not too wild about those and it looks very time consuming plus I’ve never done it.   Should I try it or have him get the correct harness?  I’m asking because it looks like a lot of extra connections that could be troublesome down the road.

-Brian Matthews

A:  For safety and reliability’s sake, my opinion is to get the correct harness.  Not only because it’s easier and looks cleaner, but mainly because adding splices to wires right behind the gas tank is just asking for trouble.

-Paul Shinn

 

Q:   I got my 80-year-old set of hands on an original 1929 (I believe) luggage Carrier that mounts to the running board (see attached).  I had to put some wood blocks underneath the running board so that the screws would tighten up. You can easily move it to the left to be able to open the passenger door. Question, is this a worthwhile addition? Were they common? Should I be glad I have it? Thank you for your time. -Ed Patton+

A:  These were an early accessory even back in the Model T days.  If the car didn’t have a trunk in the back, it was hand to be able to store small things that the driver didn’t want to keep inside the car, such as spare gas, oil, and water containers, luggage, etc.

-Rick Black

Q:  I own a 1929 roaster. My question is How do you get the screen out of the gas tank? I . It does not move I have the tool to remove it . It does not move.

-Edward Mengel

A:  The filler screen is really supposed to be a spark arrestor.  No harm leaving it in.  You can still fill the tank just fine with 99% of the gas pumps out there.

However, to answer your question, the filler screen being stuck either means it has corroded or rusted itself in place, or someone crammed it in there.  What you don’t want is for it to fall into the tank!  Get yourself a set of long pliers (like at least 12 inches long) and put them into the basket of the screen.  Now, expand the pliers enough where you can wiggle the screen out.  Be patient, you’re going to be bending metal doing this, and it will wiggle out in very small increments.
-Paul Shinn