Hubley Tips
Hubley Literature:
Several MAFCA members have donated copies of the instructions that came with each Hubley/Gabriel/Scale Model kit. Thanks to Frank Rosin. John Icenhower and Rick Black! If you have instructions that are better (or different) from ours, please contact the webmaster.
Wheels and Screws
From Bob Ward
It is very important to make sure the inside surface of the wheel hubs are smooth so they turn freely against the brake drums. The outside of the brake drums are sanded smooth to remove any casting seams so the wheels will spin freely. Dry lubricants such as powdered graphite will help to make the wheels spin freely. This is important because some cars will run as if the brakes are dragging if that step is neglected.
When assembling the front end, insert the screws which hold the tie rod on from the bottom rather than from the top. This will allow the front wheels to be locked in a straight ahead position without having to remove the body. It may take some adjustment to get the wheels pointing straight. This is an option because some fast cars also have the tie rod ends loose so the wheels can turn left and right and follow the rails down the track. Whether the front wheels are locked straight ahead or able to turn easily is up to the individual racer.
If you have any questions you may contact Bob Ward Jr., 909 924-6052
Hubley Screws
From Rick Black, Las Cruces NM – Posted May 2019
One of the things the Hubley instructions mentions is to “tap” the screw holes in the model before assembly.
Since the screw holes are so small (#2-56) and I didn’t have the appropriate tap, I used one of the “B” screws (the longer of the two) in a vice grip to “tap” the holes. And I rub the screw on a dry bar of soap first to “lubricate” the screw as I work it into the holes in the chassis and fender assembly. This setup works much better than trying to use a screwdriver. Give it a try.
If you have any questions or updates to this information, contact Rick.
From Rick Black, Las Cruces NM – Posted April 2019
I recently purchased two partially completed Hubley models and discovered some of the screws were damaged and some were missing. From the good ones I found, I took the measurements (see chart at right.) Inspecting the original assembly instructions, I was able to count how many of each were required in each kit.
Each of the 7 kits contain three types of screws. They are all labeled A, B, and C.
Screws labeled “A” are for the wheels to axles. They are #4-40 x 1/4″.
There are 4 in each kit.
Screws labeled “B” and “C” are for body and chassis.
The “B” screws are #2-56 x 3/8″ and are the long ones.
The “C” screws are #2-56 x 1/4″ and are the shorter of the two.
The number of “B” and “C” vary by kit. There are always more of “C”.
Hubley Casting Numbers
From Rick Black, Las Cruces NM
On many of the larger pieces in Hubley kits is a three-digit number which indicates the kit number. I haven’t found any “official” list of these, but the following is my observation. 850 – Roadster, 856 – Phaeton, 857 – Town Sedan, 866 – Victoria, ??? – Coupe, ??? – Station Wagon
Hubley Video Tips:
Headlights
The headlights are typically the most fragile part of Hubley cars. Here’s how one person creates a new headlight bar and uses jewels for the lenses.