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Q: I started my Model A this morning and pulled it out of my garage. An hour later, hit the starter button and nothing. Crank started it and went about my day. Got it home and pulled the switch off and direct connected a battery to it, and there is nothing happening (full 6.35v on the battery). I pulled the starter out and put it on the bench and directly connected it to a battery and still got nothing. No spin, no sparks, absolutely nothing. Any idea what could have happened?
– Jake
A: Hi Jake! Since you put 6 volts directly on the starter after removing the switch, and still have nothing, not even a spark, it sounds like either a connection inside the starter has failed, or a winding may have opened. The starter is just a basic high amperage, high torque DC electric motor, and just about any electric motor rebuilding place should be able to repair it. Search in your area for someplace that rebuilds electric starter motors, or motors used in machinery. If you feel up to the task, you can find replacement field coils, and parts from many of the popular Model A parts vendors. Some of them even offer a full starter rebuild service!
– Paul Shinn
Q: Pulled into my Thursday night meetup and the car (28 Sport Coupe) was barely running. An old timer told me to pop off the distributor cap and rotor and take a look at the points. The points were only opening once per revolution of the points cam. If I’m correct, those points are supposed to open 4 times per rotation of the cam and shaft. Am I correct?
– Jason
A: You are correct, the points should open and close 4 times per revolution of the points cam. It does sound like the distributor cam isn’t opening the points on each high side of the cam. Could be a bad point set (unlikely), or a bad cam (most likely). Try installing a new point set first and see what happens. If it doesn’t make any difference, check the cam. It’s always a good idea to have a spare set of points with you. Cheap insurance when you’re on the road.
– Rick Black
Q: When I purchased my 31 the previous owner was kind to give me a binder full of receipts and dates of his maintenance and purchases for the car. In the paperwork there are receipts for a “leakless” water pump and a two blade aluminum fan. In all the reference material I have, and in all the videos that I have watched, it notes that the aft brass fitting is for looks, but the forward zerk is functional and needs to be greased. On the pump on the car, the forward zerk does not look functional, and upon removal of the zerk the opening appears to be only machined to accommodate it and not opened into the shaft for greasing. So my question is: Is this normal? Are there pumps made that are completely maintenance free? Or am I missing something and all pumps need to have the forward part of the pump greased?
– Jeff
A: There are water pumps now that have a sealed front bearing and no grease is required. However, it’s nice to put the original zerk fitting on the front and the brass fitting in the rear, but just for looks.
– Rick Black
