Technical Q & A, August 2024
Q: Robert Pilger writes: My 1931 Tudor oil pan has a round flange with six bolts around the drain plug . Does not look like oil pans I have seen on YouTube. Is this stock and what is the difference?
A: Sounds like you have a 1928 pan. It was made so you could take the oil pump out and clean it, but they found out you didn’t need that so later pans do not have the removable cap below the oil pump.
Q: Robert Mirisola writes: Hi Paul, I just picked up this Model A from a club member. I wanted to drop the pan and inspect the oil pump and get rid of any sludge. I saw on a video you posted you had a small tool you used to hold the pump in place when dropping the pan. Did you make it or buy it? Thanks for any help I’m very new to model A life and already own 3 and will be sorting them out over this winter.
A: Hi Robert! I bought it. Most Model A parts suppliers sell the tool, it is called an “oil pump retainer”. Part number A-6621-R.
Good luck and Happy Motoring!
Q: Carmen Gianforte writes: Dear Paul, When using a digital thermometer on my engine block it runs about 160 degrees. The head temperature varies, however. The Diver’s side is a little cooler than hitchhiker’s side of the head, it is about 350 degrees or hotter. Do I have a blown head gasket? This engine has a Nu-Rex automatic timing system and a full oil filter installed. Any help is greatly appreciated.
A: Dear Carmen, That is normal. The passenger side will run a little hotter because as that is where the hot exhaust exits the cylinders and that is the side where the exhaust manifold is located. If a blown head gasket is the problem then you would notice either internal or external coolant leakage, or would be blowing water out the radiator when the engine is under load. Out of curiosity when forming the answer to this question, I went and measured one of mine. After a spirited drive, upon returning to the shop, the driver side of the head gave temperature readings around 150 degrees and the passenger side gave readings from 210 to 230.
Q: Chris Maley writes: Dear Paul, I’m looking at purchasing a 29 Tudor. It was driven often for 28 years but has been primarily setting for the past 2 years, due to owner’s health. Previously, it was shifting without grinding. When we drove it last week, it grinds slightly going into 2nd and 3rd but it eventually goes. Going into 1st and R from setting isn’t a problem. I’m trying to determine how serious this might be. I didn’t check the transmission fluid level. My thought would be to replace the transmission fluid with new 600W and see what happens. Any thoughts beyond fluid? Clutch adjustment? Thanks in advance for your guidance.
A: Hi Chris, When a clutch is in need of adjustment, it usually makes it difficult to get into 1st and reverse, not 2nd or 3rd. The issue here sounds like the transmission fluid level is too low or has lost its viscosity. I saw a club member’s transmission that was fine at the start of a tour and acted up as the tour went on last year, and back at the shop, found out it was full of water (somehow!). -Paul