Tech Q and A for November, 2024

Q: I have a 1930 Fordor , with 37,000 miles on it. When I got it, it was setting a long time, and had a valve hung up in it. I used a wood dowel to tap the valve loose. Since then, I have driven it for two summers. I did a compression test and had low compression, (40-45 lbs.). I then did a wet test, and it went up 5 pounds in each cylinder. The motor does not smoke at all. So, I’m thinking the oil rings are good, and the top compression rings may be stuck, or the valves need to be reworked. So, I was hoping to find out if Valvoline Restore and Protect is what I could be using, or pull the head and just do the valve job?

-Frank Wild

A:  Since the Model A engine is a flat head with valves on the side of the block, and uses a drip and splash oil system, adding anything that thickens the oil or leaves a residue is the exact opposite of what you want.  My suggestion is- If it runs well as-is, and isn’t smoking, then leave it as is and enjoy it!  If it starts to act up, or run poorly, then have a look inside.

-Paul Shinn

Q:  My name is Mike, from Brazil.  I Know we don’t appreciate the 12v system much, but here we have a very hard time finding affordable 6v parts (if we find at all), so the 12v is really the best way to go.  My question: Is there any instruction out there or video tutorial coming from Paul or somebody on how to convert the starter, in detail, from 6 to 12 volts? Or is it OK the way it is?

-Mike Froeder
A:  Although some people do run the 6 volt starter on 12 volts, I don’t recommend it.  Yes, it will turn over faster and some people get away with it for a while.  However, it is REALLY hard on the ring gear and the starter bendix.  If you want to stay 12 volts, then you can purchase the windings and armature wound for 12 volts from many of the Model A parts suppliers online.  After removing the shaft end of the starter housing, you can slide the armature out. Then remove the large slot screws on the outside of the starter housing, and the coils slide out.  You’ll have to do some de-soldering and soldering to swap the field coils.
-Paul Shinn

Q:  I bought a ‘29 Tudor this summer. I found transmission fluid level very low when I went to change it. What came out was a few ounces of a bizarre looking, grayish brown mud. After a kerosene flush I filled it with Mobil 600 gear oil. It leaks a bit so last week l checked the level again after about 250-300 miles or so.  It had a proper amount of fluid but it had that muddy appearance again. What do you think is going on here? The car runs and shifts ok after a warmup. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

-Lloyd S. Sobel

A:  It sounds like your kerosene flush did not get all of the residue out.  If there is no “grit” in the fluid, it should not affect the function of your transmission.  An additional flush could make the gear oil less colored but I believe that it is not necessary.  Drive it and enjoy it!

-Steve Schmauch