Q: I have a 1930 fodor Model A. I get a tight binding at full turn to the left. At full turn to the right, there is no tight binding. What causes this? -Larry
A: It sounds like the eccentric is off. The Ford Service Bulletins provide the correct way to adjust a two-tooth steering column and in what order. Please view Paul Shinn’s video with me (Steve Schmauch) on a steering gear rebuilding seminar. I think you will find it helpful. -Steve Schmauch
Q: I have a 1929 Model A closed cab pickup with a 7-tooth steering box that has seen better days. On one of Paul & Bob’s Q & A videos, Bob said if you have problems with your 7-tooth steering box, get rid of it & get a 2-tooth. My question is: what modifications do I need to do in order to change from a 7-tooth to a 2-tooth? Also, can you recommend where I buy the 2-tooth steering box/column? -Warren
A: There are no modifications necessary to install a two tooth steering gear in place of your 7 tooth. The problem is finding a good usable worm and two tooth sector parts. There are none available from the new parts vendors at this time. You might check with CW Moss or Bert’s in Colorado to see if they might have a good useable unit. -Steve Schmauch
A: Randy Gross is the premier rebuilder of F-100 steering boxes. I’ve driven a friend’s 29 roadster pickup with the F100 box. Just like power steering! Phone- (714) 292-8660 -Rick Black
Q: I developed an exhaust leak. I had a new manifold set available to replace the old manifold set. I watched Pauls video on changing the manifold which helped my anxiety of doing the job. There are a few key points with this project.
- When removing the manifold nuts, the nuts were seized and the entire stud came out. I will order a new set of studs, washers and nuts.
- Is there anything unusual I might run into with reinstalling the new studs?
- Are there any pro tips/tricks with installing the new studs?
- The intake to exhaust bolts wrung off in the manifold. Can I use a grade 8 bolt from the hardware store for this. (this is and will never be a show car)
- I have attached a picture of the block. I have scraped the gasket of by hand. In the video, Paul had the block looking like new. He said he cleaned up the block to get it ready. What can I use and what should I NOT use to clean up the block. Can I use a wire wheel, a wire hand brush, just a scraper and some steel wool…? -Matt
A: New studs, nuts, and washers are a good idea. When installing the studs, put a light coat of “anti seize” lubricant on the stud threads so that they will come out in the future when you need to remove them. Your new washers will be slightly concave, not flat. Put the “dome side” of the washer out and have the nut clamp down on that.
Any bolts can be used to hold the intake manifold on. They don’t need to be Grade 8, they are not under any load. Put anti seize on the threads so that they will come out in the future.
Clean the side of the block better with a wire wheel in your electric drill. Don’t let stuff get into the 2 intake holes on the side of the block. Plug the holes up with wadded cloth or paper towel and clean well after you are done.
After you bolt the intake manifold to the new exhaust manifold, take them to a machine shop as an assembly, bolted together, and have them machine the surfaces that go against the side of the engine block so that they are all perfectly flat. The machine shop will know what needs to be done. If you don’t do this, you will have a vacuum leak or an exhaust leak.
I like to use the exhaust manifold “gland rings” with a new exhaust manifold. But if you are not careful, they can create problems, so some guys don’t use them. After your manifold is machined flat, test fit the manifold with the gland rings in but no gasket. Make sure the gland rings are not too thick, preventing the manifold from going all the way up flat against the block. If the rings are too thick, you have to sand them down so that they are not holding the manifold from going all the way against the block. Once you pass that test, add the gaskets and torque ti down.
That should do it! Torque the nuts on the side of the manifolds again after you have run the car a few times and let it cool off, in case the gasket compresses. -Jim Cannon
